| KERI SMITH in BANGLADESH |
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This is the full entry for week
11
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Cliches and stereotypes have been of interest this week. By definition
I suppose, cliches are based on fact. Whether that fact is still relevant, or as
widespread, is of course debatable, but by and large there must have been something that
was true to lead us to turn it into a cliche.
I experienced or had confirmed 2 good ones this week, the first being
about the World Bank. Now, the World Bank is one of those lofty and extremely well
funded international organisations that is supposed to help the poorer countries of this
world become "developed". The cliche is that, like many other lofty and extremely well
funded international institutions (the UN, European Commission etc.), the people taking
huge decisions about the poor generally speaking never actually leave their very
comfortable and air conditioned offices in the capital city or HQ to see what life is
really like for the people they are officially supposed to be helping. This simplistic
view was totally and utterly (and sadly) confirmed by a chap I know here from touch
rugby who used to work for "the Bank" as it's rather ominously known. He even
said, if I remember rightly, that he was actually discouraged from heading off to see
the real world when he suggested going out into the country. Not an encouraging cliche
I grant you but good to know.
The second cliche is about the level of beaurocracy in developing
countries. I don't know about you but my vision of it all went something like this:
Offices with ceiling fans whirring away, small people coming and going, no sense of
organisation or order, piles of paper tied up with string everywhere, and somewhere at
the head or centre of it all one man (probably taller and fatter than the others) who
sits in a large office behind a big desk in front of rows of chairs and just signs
documents that are gingerly offered by his minions. Well, on Saturday my boss took me
to meet the district Chief Executive i.e. the highest ranking government official that
directly manages the administration that covers our NGO. Everything, and I mean
everything, that I've just described was true. Everything. It's like the procedures and
systems that the British Raj introduced and used all those years ago have never been
updated. Or perhaps more accurately, it's like they have never questioned this way of
working to judge whether it's still effective and efficient given the current situation
and needs. I sat in this office waiting for my boss to come back (he left the room
muttering some story about sorting out a gun permit...) and watched the Chief Executive
work. When he didn't have visitors he picked up a pile of documents tied up with red
string from his desk, read a few lines, and if all was satisfactory he'd sign something
(and it's numerous copies) and then literally throw the pile on the floor behind him!
When all wasn't to his liking he would press a button attached to his desk to summon a
minion to fetch someone or clarify something. It was fascinating, though I wish his
English or my Bangla had been better so that I could have asked him more about it all.
Wondering about this week's photo? It was a classic moment Saturday
early evening that I just had to capture. I'd been out all afternoon with my boss Habib
meeting a few people around the district and got back in time to see some American
wrestling on Bangladeshi TV. Let me dwell on that one for a while: TV here seems to
consist of people singing on variety shows or really bad looking soaps. To find that in
the midst of all these rather endearing yet primitive looking programmes there lurks
such commercial Western crap as American wrestling (a 20-man over-the-top-rope battle
royal no less) was odd to say the least (and of course I sat down and watched it - they
were grunting in English). Anyway, after this cultural interlude I felt like doing some
work, so I cranked up the laptop, opened up the report I'm writing and put on some
music. There was very little noise in the building so within 5 minutes I had all the
lads in my office gathered around this amazing little machine that displayed funny
looking shapes (a flowchart) and played Western music (Hotel Costes vol. 3 if you're
interested). They were fascinated. Back home, to generate the same effect you'd need a
really funny photo that a mate had sent you by e-mail, or a compromising picture of the
boss taken at the last office party. Now there's something to look forward to as
Christmas approaches...
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