| KERI SMITH in BANGLADESH |
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This is the full entry for week
26
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In the series "Things out here aren't quite like back home"
I've 2 more examples for you this week. First up we have getting onto the Internet.
Back in Paris I could surf either in my living room at home or in the
office. Either way it was reliable, cheap and easily accessible. Neither of those
options are available to me here, though we did have a dial-up connection in my boss'
office for a wee while. Then Bangladesh Telecom helpfully came and "improved"
our radio connection and it hasn't worked since. So, to send and receive e-mails I have
to trek 2 km across country to the local Plan International office where we are
fortunate enough to have free access. My journey goes something like this:
I leave the BRIF campus walking through a collection of mud and straw
houses with the villagers staring at me, some smiling and saying hello. A mad old woman
mumbles something at me in Bangla as I walk past, and judging by her tone and general
demeanor I have no desire to find out more. Everyone I cross on the path or overtake
says hello and asks "What is your name?", children sometimes screaming it out
at the top of their lungs from several fields away. At the same spot on the path each
time a group of small children play a game of linking hands across the path to block me.
I spread my arms wide, put my head down and accelerate into them as they giggle and
scatter before I reach them. They get their own back by tugging at my trousers and
rucksack from behind, so I grab a few by the arms and hoist them into the air. They
like that. About midway I walk across a school playing area and half the kids, when on
break, stop whatever they're doing and walk towards me saying hello etc. The cheeky ones
run up, say something, then run off again. I continue walking on dykes between paddy
fields, picking a route between the cows and goats, pegged to the side of the path to
graze. Sometimes baby goats let out high-pitched distressed bleats looking for their
mother. I walk past ponds where people are bathing and washing clothes. Some contain
pairs of water buffalo cooling off in water up to their ears. I envy them. As I finally
reach the market area around the office some rickshaw pullers ask if I want to go to
Ranirbandar (the nearest "town" where the Dhaka bus stops). The shopkeeper
next to the office entrance says hello in a hopeful "What can I sell you?"
sort of voice. As I enter the office compound the Plan office guard salutes me and I
start praying that the Internet is actually working and I won't have to turn straight
round and do it all again in 40 degrees under a blazing sun.
The more alert amongst you may have detected more than 3 differences
between the 2 versions. Well done.
Sticking to the hi-tech communications theme we next have phoning
someone using a mobile phone. There are several competing mobile networks in Bangladesh,
and as always in these situations the levels of coverage of each are far from equal.
BRIF gave me my predecessor's old mobile phone and SIM card, and when last in Dhaka I
bought some credit. To say that coverage is patchy up here is an understatement, so what
they do is build high antenna using long and surprisingly strong bamboo poles. Even with
this my phone wasn't picking up enough signal for me to place or receive a call, so
Habib suggested raising the antenna by attaching it to a mango tree (see photo). We
spent 2 hours Saturday afternoon moving the bamboo pole from it's previous location in
front of my bedroom, carrying it round the back of the building through a pond to the
mango tree, then pulling and pushing it into place up the tree. It took about 4 guys to
get it in place and lashed "securely" to the tree, not to mention getting the
cable across the roof and back down to my room so I could use it in privacy. Once we'd
finished we admired our handiwork - an antenna a full 10 feet higher than it was
previously and surely capable of picking up enough signal to solve my communication
problems.
Did it buggery. The bloody thing made absolutely no difference
whatsoever. Meanwhile, Habib, who uses a different network, has plenty of signal and can
receive and send calls and SMS's internationally from my garden. Guess what I did the
next day then? Yep, I got myself a different phone and network provider. The mango tree
ariel does look quite impressive though.
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