| KERI SMITH in BANGLADESH |
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This is the full entry for week
38
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It feels just a tad weird writing about a week in Bangladesh when I'm
sitting in my parent's house in deepest middle class Hertfordshire. To say the 2 places
are worlds apart is an understatement. They represent 2 lives, my childhood past and my
adult present, so I'm being flooded with ancient and happy memories that make it
difficult to recall even what I did last week. Here goes anyway.
To say that my week was dominated by my flight back to England is
obvious, and another huge understatement. Quite literally everything I did was geared
towards getting on that plane early Saturday morning, from a few presents for the family
and friends down to how much fruit I bought at the market so as not to have to throw too
much away when I left for Dhaka. Rest assured it all worked out in the end, though
thanks mostly to circumstances beyond my control.
I had originally planned to travel down on the Thursday to give
myself an evening plus a full day to do some last minute shopping etc. At work I was
basically in the very slow phase I described last week, so my bus down couldn't come
sooner. In was on precisely this point that I got a lucky break, thanks to Habib. We
were talking over the weekend and he mentioned he was going to Dhaka for a CARE workshop
to be held on Tuesday. I asked what it was about, and when he mentioned capacity
building and organisational development my interest was suddenly considerably higher
than at any other moment in the previous 10 days. From there it was of course easy to
confirm that my presence could indeed be beneficial for all concerned, and so it was
that we decided I should go to Dhaka on Monday and not Thursday! Result!
In all honesty I was actually looking forward to the workshop as
Habib said that it was to be run by the INTRAC consultant from England I'd met some
weeks earlier at the VSO quarterly meeting. This struck me as odd as I felt sure she had
already flown home after her 2 week stay, but Habib seemed sure of his facts so I
accepted them as such. Originally we had intended to travel down together, but Habib had
to go to Dinajpur about a court case BRIF has brought against a few ex-employees who
embezzled money from a micro-credit fund over 4 years ago. The wheels of justice turn
slowly in Bangladesh, unless of course some financial lubricant is applied if you see
what I mean. To cut a long story short I travelled down alone, saw far too many crashed
buses on either side of the road (a consequence of the rainy season), and got to where I
was staying around 10pm.
The next morning, I waited at VSO with my mobile phone to meet Habib
as arranged, but he never came. He never called either, and I couldn't reach him. In the
end I decided to go to the meeting alone, so got directions from VSO staff to avoid
letting the rickshaw puller guess his way. The instructions I received, which proved to
be extremely accurate and useful, were to ask for the opposition leader husband's house!
Why the husband I asked, surely they live together? Ah they do, but when a woman gets
married she leaves her father's house and moves to her husband's. Logical really. So I
get there about 30 minutes late, which normally wouldn't be a problem, and as I approach
the entrance the various drivers and servants hanging around seem quite surprised to see
me. Being a white man in Bangladesh I'm used to such a reaction so carry on towards the
door, but then one chap asks me in English why I have come. For the meeting I reply.
What meeting he asks. The workshop of course, about partnership and things. It's been
cancelled he tells me. Ah ha. After a phone call and the examination of a memo received
the previous day it transpires that the facilitator's father had just died, which as
reasons to cancel a meeting at the last minute go is pretty much top 5 in my
book.
Let me recap: I'm in Dhaka on Tuesday morning at around 9.30 am with
nothing strictly professional to do at all. In other words, I've magically gained 3 days
of extra time to shop, finalise arrangements and relax before leaving for the UK.
Bonus!! So what did I do first? Well, after calling Habib to arrange we meet up at 5pm I
got a taxi to the best hotel in town for my monthly haircut! That evening I took Habib
to the BAGHA for a beer and some dinner (which I think he enjoyed) and the rest of the
week was very relaxed with plenty of time to get things done and still have some left
over to watch the footie and and play touch rugby on Friday afternoon. I would go into
details but quite frankly it's not at all interesting, and most of you will be seeing me
in person over the next 3 weeks so can ask more then in the unlikely event you so
desire.
What then of coming back to the UK? Well, the flight was fine and
even arrived 40 minutes early. This, combined with the traffic jams on the M25, meant I
got through customs before my parents could get to the arrivals gate, so in the end it
was I who found them and not them that shouted "KERIIIIII!" as I emerged
through sliding doors to face a scrum of anxious families and surly taxi drivers. Once
back at the family home it was suprising just how normal everything felt. A few things
had changed, but home is still home not matter how long you've been away and what you've
been through. That at least is my view anyway.
It didn't take me long to realise though that something had changed
in me since I was last home. My father and I went down to the rugby club in the hope
they were showing the Argentina-Wales rugby international on satellite TV. As it turned
out they'd cancelled their subscription due to the cost, so my Dad got a few pints of
Stella in and we chatted to a few of Dad's old rugby friends that I've met on previous
very similar occasions. We got into this discussion with a retired Welsh guy about why
Britain should be a more active member of the EU, and within 10 minutes I found myself
ranting away about the necessity for closer international cooperation and development
aid using a variety of statistics and stories that 12 months ago I'd never even heard
of. In my defense I was tired after the flight not to mention rather emotional after the
last month of various illnesses and strains in Bangladesh. None the less, my politics
have clearly changed and my world view will never be the same again. One thing has
remained constant though - 2 pints of Stella are still pretty lethal on an empty
stomach.
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